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Fabric Definitions

A-Z Of Fabrics

Acrylic fibre 

An artificial fibre containing nitrile.

Basic dyes 

These contain basic amino group and their use is in natural cellulosic fibres in an alkaline dye bath.

Bath

It's a basic solution, where a chemical process is carried out.

Basket weave

It's also called matt weave.

Blanket

It's a heavy fabric having a raised finish.

Blending

The term means mixing of different fibres in a specified proportion so as to get advantages in the end result accruing from the properties of the blended fabrics.

Bleaching

It's a chemical process undertaken for improving the whiteness of a fabric, yarn or a fibre (retaining the natural colour)

Bleeding

When a fabric looses its colour when in contact with a solvent it's called bleeding

Blinding

Happens when you remove the lustre of textiles.

Blind Stitch

An invisible stitch on the fabric face or a garment.

Boucle (Booclay) yarn

A yarn which has tight loops formed across its length.

Brighteners

These are chemical constituents which when added to detergents increase the brightness of a fabric.

Brocade

Used extensively for silk saris, this fabric has very exquisite effects by using satin weaves against a plain weave background.

Brushing

The end result of this finishing process is a raised effect, it involves passing the fabric over two or more brushes.

Calendaring

It's a finishing process for promoting smoothness and shine to a fabric's texture.

Contemporary

Currently in vogue

Cool Colours

Blue, Violet and Green are considered cool colours.

Calico

It's a plain weave cotton fabric having a medium cover factor.

Cambric

It's a light weighing, closely woven fabric (cottons or linen).

Chambray

A light net, plain weave of cotton. A blend of synthetic yarns.

Checks

A pattern made of squares.

Cavalry twill

A warp-faced fabric having double twill lines separated by grooves. It is a heavy weight fabric.

Colour fastness

The property by virtue of which the dyed material has resistance against bleeding on washed or exposed to light, gas, rubbing.

Combed yarn

The yarn whose slivers have been carded and combed.

Composite yarn

This Yarn made of both staple and filament fibres.

Cord

A general term used for a) plied b) cabled yarns and structures made by braiding, knitting or weaving.

Corduroy

A cut pile having cords or ribs in the warp direction e.g. cut velveteen fabrics.

Cotton

Natural vegetable fibre obtained from seed hair of plants of the gossipyum family.

Curing

It is the procedure of setting of resin or plastic.

Count

It's a ratio of the yarn or a fibre's weight to its length.

Count of cloth

The number of picks per inch/cm and ends per inch/cm in the cloth.

Direct dyes

Dyes made of vegetable fibres.

Disperse dyes

Dyes used only for synthetics e.g. polyester.

Drill

A twill weave, piece dyed fabric. It is usually made in 0.7m width.

Discharge (printing)

It's a  method employed in printing where by applying a chemical substance on the specific areas of a dyed fabric , the dye gets removed or discharged leaving behind a coloured or white pattern

Dupion

Is a fabric woven from imitation silk (artificial fibre).

Elastic fabric

A fabric having extensible properties like Lycra

Embossing

It's a method to get a raised feel or depressed feel of the fabric by passing it through heated rollers.

Embroidery

A method where a decorative patterns was sewn by handle through a needle or by a sewing machine but more latterly by computerised control of multi head embroidery stations.

Embroidery lace

Embroidery done on lace material.

Fabric

Term used to address all materials whether they may be made of fibres, yarns, lace, etc

Fastness

It is the resistance which a material provides to an agent.

Filament

An artificial lengthy and continuous fibre.

Finishing

Treatment given to a fabric to improve its look and texture properties.

Forte of a garment

Means the strong point of the garment

Frey

When handling some fabrics, the threads which come out are called frey.

Gabardine

It's a Worsted fabric with a prominent twill face.

Georgette

Crepe fine fabric with alternate twisted tarn.

Fad

Short term fashion (trends) are called fads.

Grain

A synonym for the length wise (weft yarn) or cross-wise (warp yarn) threads of the fabric.

Hosiery

Knitted articles.

Haute Couture

Hi-Fashion garments.

Hue

Is the shades and degrees of colour.

Imitation velvet

Plain weave with small tufts or fibres which are joined by an adhesive.

Interlining

Woven or non woven fabric layer between outer cloth wall and the inner to give it an insulation and shape.

Jacquard

It's a weaving machine which produces very intricate designs as it can control each warp yarn.

Jersey

It's a Plain knit fabric

Lace

Open work fabric.

Lawn

Light thin cotton fabric.

Lustre

Gloss of textiles.

Non woven

Fabric from a web of fibres held together by various methods other than felting, colouring, or intertwining.

Organdy

Thin transparent stiff effect on cotton.

Polyamide

Polymerized product of alcohols and acids.

Poplin

A plain weave fabric with ribbed effect.

Press mark

Undesirable shinning lines on the right side of the garment due to incorrect ironing.

Pucker

Is to draw up into folds or wrinkles.

Raw silk

Silk which comes directly from cocoon with a little twist in the thread.

Screen-printing

A method of decoration where either water based or plastisol ink is forced through differing sizes of silk mesh to leave one or many colours either in (water based) or on (plastisol) the fabric of the garment.

Seam Line

The line which shows where the seam should be stitched.

Silhouette

It's an outline of a garment.

Spun silk

Silk yarn from short a short filament.

Suede cloth

A finish which resembles chamois leather.

Staple

It is the average length of a fibre.

Surface Decoration

Ornamenting the surface of a fabric or garment (e.g. Embroidery etc.)

Taffeta

Plain closely woven filament fabric.

Tapestry

Yarn dyed figured fabrics in jacquard loom.

Taper

To decrease width gradually and bring it to an end point.

Thread Count

Is the number of warp and weft yarns in one square-inch of a fabric (warp yarn x weft yarn per sq. inch/cm)

Trend

Fashion is not static, they are constantly moving, their movement has a definite direction. The direction in which fashion moves is called fashion Trend.

Trim

To cut off the ragged edges below the seam line to prevent the garment from being bulky and to give the seam a neat finish.

Terylene

British polyester fibre.

Tweed

A rough fabric of wiry heavy wools invented by the English.

Twill weave

Weft interlaced with warp to form diagonal ridges in fabric.

Velour

A cut pile fabric heavier than velvet, longer piles with fine raised finish of cotton /wool.

Warm Colours

Colours like Red, Orange, Yellow are classified as warm colours.

Worsted fabric

A fabric manufactured wholly from worsted yarns, the exception being presence of some decoration threads of other fibres.

Yarn

A product of substantial length and relatively small cross- section consisting of fibres and /or filament (s).